Erte has been my inspiration since I started designing for fashion then film. I have designed many films set in the twenties period and his attention to detail has given me lots of ideas for trims and special features that I was able to convert and use in my costumes.
When this challenge was announced I was really excited and set about finding the reference piece I would use as my inspiration for the challnege gown
I have about 15 books of his work and it was with great pleasure I sat down to have a good read :-). There was so much to choose from that in the end it was a hard decision. I like his stark contrast in color and style and wanted to use that aspect of his work. He also uses a lot of silver and gold so when I came across this sculpture I knew it embodied the ideas I wanted to use without turning it into a costume.
Below is my chosen sculpture plus a couple of designs that were a possibility along the way but ended up being not quite what I wanted.

I used black satin for the gown with a silver metallic knit for the binding on all the edges. The hardest part was the inserts of sheer on the bodice. Getting the fit with the tiny pieces meant throwing darts everywhere:-). They are connected by diamantes across the sheer panels. The scarf is very long in sheer black georgette with the same bind on the edges. It has a silver pendant on each end with a crystal and ruby to finish it off. This is then draped over the head and around the arm to give the appearance of a turban and an off the shoulder sleeve. The gown itself is lined with the sheer georgette.
Here are some working pics.

This was one of my favourite challenges and I was so pleased to still be a part of Project Dollway and get the chance to do this gown. Below is the design the way I pictured it to be. As I didn't have the Kish doll I was hoping that it would look the same when Ted came to dress her.


Here she is with her notes. 

THE ERTE CHALLENGE

Using Erte's "Pearls and Diamonds" as my reference for this challenge I wanted to create a timeless beauty amid modern aesthetic. The sculpture is done in black and gold but I have chosen to use silver trim to match the coloring of the Kish doll being used as the model. Erte is all about bias and drapery and I have based my design on these features.
I wanted to make a fitted and elegant bodice shape on the bias and combine his renowned draping into the skirt with the fullness in one side only. This allows the split to open during spontaneous movement. I have combined a silver trim on most edges to outline the flowing lines in this gown.
The accompanying scarf has been designed as an ornament of sophisticated whimsy. It can be swathed and coiled to become an apparition of the sleeve and turban in the original sculpture. The fantasy of this is the ability to take on many different guises without compromising the style and grace of the gown (which can also be worn alone with understated elegance ). The scarf has an inserted silver trim and silver pendants suspended each end with crystal and ruby drops.
I chose a soft satin for this gown and everything was cut on the bias. The scarf is in georgette, as is the lining of the skirt. Erte's work is very curvilinear and these fabrics adapt very well to this styling.
I have embellished the bodice with crystals that appear to join each panel over the flesh colored inserts.
Adapting a gown using Erte as a reference has been a very enjoyable challenge!